What you are paying for.

Diamond prices are based upon their quality, which includes the criteria put forth in the 4C'S. One small change to any of the 4C parameters can result in a significant price difference. This isn't an issue if you have an accredited appraiser or gemologist making the purchase on your behalf, but for the ordinary customer it is "buyer Beware". Anyone in the trade will tell you that diamond grading is somewhat subjective, diamond appraisals from two independent evaluators can differ by one or as much as two grades due to each individuals vision, equipment, and general interpretation of what each grade criteria means. For a little more money you can purchase a diamond that has a GIA or AGSL report. This laboratory verification report guarantees the color, cut, clarity, and carat grade of any given diamond.The GIA or AGSL report is a world recognized document verifying your diamond's 4 C'S as being irrefutable. In some cases, the GIA or AGSL report registration number will be laser inscribed on the diamond girdle, an added method of identification that matches up with the GIA or AGSL report. The GIA or AGSL report will eliminate any subjectivity found in the appraisal issued by an appraiser or gemologist. However, you will still need the appraisal certificate from an accredited evaluator or gemologist to insure the ring against theft or loss.

The 4 C'S of Diamond Grading - Keeping it Simple

CUT


Cut fuels the diamond’s fire, sparkle, and brilliance.
It seems miraculous that the traditional 58 tiny facets in a diamond, each precisely cut and sharply defined, may be only two millimeters in diameter. But without this precision, a diamond wouldn’t be near as beautiful as it is. Without a doubt, the allure of a particular diamond depends more on cut than anything else.

Though extremely difficult to analyze, the cut of a diamond has three attributes: brightness (the total light reflected from a diamond), fire (the dispersion of light into the colors of the spectrum), and scintillation (the light flashes – or sparkle – when a diamond moves).

An understanding of diamond cut begins with the shape of a diamond, with the standard round brilliant dominating the majority of diamond jewelry. All other diamond shapes are known as fancy shapes or fancy cuts and include the marquise, pear, oval, and emerald cuts. Hearts, cushions, triangles, and a variety of other new shapes are also gaining popularity in many forms of diamond jewelry.

As a value factor, though, cut refers to a diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish. For example, look at a side view of the standard round brilliant. The major components, from top to bottom, are the crown, the girdle, and the pavilion. A round brilliant cut diamond can have either 57 or 58 facets, the 58th being a tiny flat facet at the bottom of the pavilion, known as the culet. The large, flat facet on the top is the table. The proportions of a diamond refer to the relationships between table size, crown angle, and pavilion depth. A wide range of proportion combinations are possible, and these ultimately affect the stone’s synchronicity with light.

In early 2005, GIA unveiled a diamond cut grading system for standard round brilliants in the D-to-Z color range. This system, the product of more than 15 years of intensive research and testing, assigns an overall diamond cut grade ranging from Excellent to Poor.

CLARITY


Diamond Clarity refers to the absence of internal inclusions or external blemishes.
Because they are created deep within the earth, most diamonds contain unique birthmarks called inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). Diamonds with very few birthmarks are rare and, of course, rarity affects a diamond’s value. Using the International Diamond Grading System™, created by GIA, diamonds are given a clarity grade that ranges from flawless (FL) to diamonds with more prominent inclusions (I3).

Every diamond is unique. But none are absolutely perfect even though some come close, even under 10x magnification. Known as flawless diamonds, they are exceptionally rare. Most jewelers have never even see one.

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades, with most readily available diamonds falling into the VS or SI categories. In determining a clarity grade, GIA considers the size, nature, position, color or relief, and quantity of clarity characteristics visible under 10x magnification.

* Flawless (FL)
No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification
* Internally Flawless (IF)
No inclusions and only minor blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification
* Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2)
Inclusions are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10× magnification
* Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2)
Inclusions are clearly visible under 10× magnification but can be characterized as minor
* Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2)
Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader using 10× magnification
* Imperfect (I1, I2, and I3)
Inclusions are obvious under 10× magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance

COLOUR


The Color of the diamond is all about what you can't see.
Diamonds are valued by how closely they approach colorlessness – the less color, the higher the value. Most diamonds found in jewelry stores run from colorless to near-colorless with slight hints of yellow or brown. The only exceptions are the fancy-color diamonds that lie outside of this range.

GIA's diamond color-grading scale is the industry’s most widely accepted grading system. The scale begins with the letter D, representing colorless, and continues, with increasing presence of color, to the letter Z. Diamonds are color-graded by comparing them to stones of known color under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions.

Many of these color distinctions are so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye. But these slight color differences make a very big difference in diamond quality and price.

CARAT

Carat weight is the most intuitive of the 4Cs – you expect a larger diamond to be worth more when assigning diamond values.
Diamonds and other gemstones are weighed using metric carats with one carat weighing about the same as a small paper clip, or 0.2 grams. Just as a dollar is divided into 100 pennies, a carat is divided into 100 points which means that a diamond of 50 points weighs 0.50 carats. But two diamonds of equal weight can have very different values depending on the other three characteristics of a diamond’s 4Cs: clarity, color, and cut. The majority of diamonds used in fine jewelry weigh one carat or less.

Because even a fraction of a carat can represent a considerable difference in cost when purchasing diamonds, exact precision is crucial. In the diamond industry, weight is measured to a thousandth of a carat and rounded to the nearest hundredth. Each hundredth is called a point (a 0.25 ct. diamond would be called a “twenty-five pointer”). Diamond weights greater than one carat are expressed in carats and decimals. (For instance, a 1.08 ct. stone would be described as “one point oh eight carats,” or “one oh eight.”)

The four C's and what they mean when you buy a diamond

CUT

The 4 c's and what they mean.

Choosing the right stuff for your ring.

GOLD

In the Karat system, pure gold is expressed as "24 Karat Fine" (24K). The gold content of any gold article depends on the proportion of pure gold it contains. In its purest form, 24K is too soft to withstand the abrasions usually associated with daily wear, so it is alloyed with other metals to give it strength. The color of gold is determined by the percentages of alloys that are mixed with the pure gold. Each of these metals alter the color, eg: copper= red gold, nickel or palladium = white gold.
Historically, white gold was introduced to replace Platinum. White gold can resemble Platinum, but the two have very different properties and prices. 19 Karat gold is the whitest of all and due to the special new metal alloys does not need to be Rhodium plated. Traditionally, white gold is plated with Rhodium, giving definite chrome white appearance, the piece looks more Platinum-like but has the hardness and cost effectiveness associated with white gold. The gold content in white gold is equal to its comparative yellow gold Karat, in that 18K white or yellow gold each contain 75% pure yellow gold.

PLATINUM

Platinum is one of the rarest metals mined in the world. Its grey white luster is unique and it is one of the strongest precious metals used in jewelry. Platinum is the only precious metal used in jewelry that is 90% to 95% pure, largely hypoallergenic, and tarnish resistant. Platinum jewelry is usually marked 900pt, 950Plat, or Plat. While it is the strongest of jewelry metals, it does scratch and develop a patina of wear. Many people prefer this look, unique to Platinum. Platinum can be re-polished to bring back the original reflective finish with minimal difficulty.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PLATINUM AND 18K OR 19K WHITE GOLD

Platinum is often compared to white gold, although the two metals are very different. Platinum is a naturally white metal. 18K White gold is, actually, yellow gold to which either nickle or palladium has been added. 18K white gold is plated with Rhodium in order to keep its Platinum-like luster. This plating tends to disappear with time and wear, causing the gold's natural color to appear. How long will it take? There is no simple answer. It depends on the thickness of the plating, the precise conditions under which it was applied and how the wearer uses the material. 19K white gold contains special metal alloys that make it the whitest of white golds and often confused with Platinum. 19K white gold does not need to be rhodium plated and is naturally a clean, crisp white.
Platinum is the most valued of the precious metals. Its beautiful silver-white color will not tarnish. It is unaffected by common household chemicals and, unlike gold, does not get damaged by chlorine, bleach, or detergents. It is tougher than all precious jewelry metals, but, it still must be alloyed with stronger metals to prevent it from bending.
The cost of Platinum jewelry is higher than gold because of its purity, its heft, and the intricate process of working with it.It take special skills and tools to work with Platinum and the metal has a significantly higher melting point than gold. For these reasons, the cost of repairs to Platinum is significantly higher than those for gold.

The right stuff - How to choose the right metal for your ring

GOLD

In the karat system, pure gold is expressed as "24 karat fine" (24K). The gold content of any gold article depends on the proportion of pure gold it contains. In its purest form, 24K is too soft to withstand the abrasions usually associated with daily wear, so it is alloyed with other metals to give it strength.
The color of gold is determined by the different alloys that are mixed with pure gold, ie: copper alloy = pink gold, nickle and /or palladium=white gold. Each of these alloys alters the color.
Historically, white gold was introduced to replace Platinum. White gold can resemble Platinum, but the two have very different properties and prices.
19 karat white gold is the whitest of all and due to the special new metal alloy does not need to be rhodium plated. Traditionally, white gold is plated with Rhodium, giving definite, chrome white appearance, the piece then looks similar to Platinum, is durable and cheaper than Platinum.
The gold content in white gold is equal to its comparative yellow gold karat, in that, 18K white or yellow gold each contain 75% pure yellow gold.

PLATINUM

Platinum is the only precious metal used in fine jewellry that is 90% - 95% pure. is hypoallergenic, and tarnish-resistant. Platinum jewellry is usually stamped 900pt, 950 Plat, or Plat. While it is the stonrgest of jewelry metals, it does scratch and develop a patina of wear. Many people prefer this look, unique to Platinum. Platinum can be re-polished to bring back the original finish.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PLATINUM AND 18K OR 19K WHITE
GOLD?

Platinum is a naturally white metal. 18K white gold is, actually, yellow gold that has been alloyed (mixed) with another metal. 18K white gold is plated with rhodium in order to keep its Platinum like luster. Over time this plating wears off (yellowing) and has to be re-done. How long depends on the frequency of wear, skin acidity, and the thickness of the rhodium plating.
19K white gold contains special metal alloys that make it the whitest ofwhite golds and is often confused with Platinum. 19K white gold does not need to be rhodium plated and is naturally a clean, crisp white.
Platinum is a tougher metal unaffected by common household chemicals and, unlike gold is not damaged by chlorine, bleach or detergents. Platinum though tough still has to be alloyed with stronger metals to prevent bending.
The cost of platinum jewelry is higher than gold because of it purity. Cost of repairs is higher as well because it takes specialized tools and skills to work in Platinum.

How to clean your jewelry at home.

When clients buy a ring one of the first questions they ask me when they get their ring is "how do I keep it clean?". Here is a simple step by step method of cleaning that will make your diamonds and precious gemstones shine.

1) Make sure that the piece of jewelry you want to clean contains diamonds or gemstones. If you have pearl,emeralds,opal, amber, coral, ivory or shell in the jewelry you want to clean, DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING METHOD OF CLEANING. WARM SOAPY WATER ARE THE ONLY THINGS YOU SHOULD USE ON ANY OF THESE TYPES OF GEMS.

2) Fill a small bowl with Windex and heat in the microwave until very hot, after you take the Windex out of the microwave soak the jewelry you want to clean for 20 - 30 minutes in the hot Windex.DO NOT MICROWAVE YOUR JEWELRY. Windex contains ammonia and will not harm your gemstones or your gold or platinum settings.Windex will dissolve all the dead skin, oils and creams that builds up on the underneath parts of your jewelry. Alternatively, you can use a solution of dishwater detergent such as Palmolive liquid and hot water to the same effect.

3) Once the jewelry has soaked for 20 minutes, using an old toothbrush very gently brush the dirt and grime from the top and bottom of the stone and the gold setting. Dust, skin oil, creams and hand soap will collect on and underneath the stone and the gold setting drastically reducing the rings shine and sparkle. Removing these deposits will make your ring shine like new.

4) Finally, rinse off the Windex or soap taking care not to hold it over the drain when doing this. Dry with a soft lint free cloth.

Let me introduce myself.....

Hi...my name is Gino Priolo and I wanted to introduce you to my new blog. I am the owner of Ex Aurum Jewelers in Montreal we manufacture jewelry of all kinds but diamond wedding jewelry and fine jewelry designs using precious gemstones is our speciality. Using our CAD facility we can re-produce any design you want and at really good prices. Keep on checking our blog as sometimes I will put up different items and offer them to you at really deep discounted prices. I will also post information on a varity of subjects such as jewelry cleaning, how to buy diamonds and today's trends and hottest selling designs.