London—Pieces from a renowned collection of jewelry once owned by Wallis Simpson, the infamous Duchess of Windsor, will hit the auction block at Sotheby's in late November. But first, the jewels are embarking on an international tour.

Included among the touring items are a number of Cartier creations, a jeweled Van Cleef & Arpels purse and a series of silver items and medals that were once property of Edward VIII. The pieces are currently on display in London and will move on to Hong Kong, Moscow, New York and Geneva before a Nov. 30 auction, where they are expected to fetch around $4.7 million.

The Sotheby's auction will mark the first time the Duchess of Windsor jewels have returned to market in 23 years, back when the auction house sold the items as part of an auction that fetched $50 million.

The collection is renowned both for its exquisite jewels from the great European jewelry houses, as well as for the story that they tell of a romance that led Edward VIII, who became king in 1936, to abdicate the throne of Great Britain.

An American socialite, Simpson was once divorced and married a second time when she began a relationship with Edward VIII, then Prince of Wales. Months into his reign as king, Edward caused a national scandal, declaring that he would give up the throne to marry the now twice-divorced Simpson.

The pair became the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, and the jewelry they commissioned over the years illustrates key events in their historic relationship. Included among the auction pieces are a Cartier onyx and diamond panther bracelet designed in 1952; a flamingo brooch featuring rubies, sapphires, emeralds, citrines and diamonds, bought in 1940; and a number of inscribed designs.

A heart-shaped emerald, ruby and diamond brooch by Cartier features the initials "W.E.," for "Wallis and Edward," and commemorates the pair's 20th wedding anniversary. Another Cartier diamond bracelet is studded with nine gem-set Latin crosses, each representing special moments in Simpson's life from 1934 to 1944.

Today, the Duchess of Windsor jewels remain the most valuable single-owner jewelry collection ever sold, Sotheby's said in a media release.
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About Fluorescence

What is fluorescence?

Fluorescence is the visible light some diamonds emit when they are exposed to invisible ultraviolet (UV) rays. On a GIA diamond grading report, fluorescence refers to the strength, or intensity, of the diamond's reaction to long-wave UV, which is an essential component of daylight. The light emitted lasts as longs as the diamond is exposed to the ultraviolet light.

Is Fluorescence common?

Yes. Of the diamonds submitted to GIA over the past decade, approximately 25% to 35% exhibit some degree of fluorescence. However, only 10% of those show strengths of fluorescence that may impact appearance (i.e. strengths noted on laboratory reports as medium, strong, and very strong). In more than 95% of the diamonds that exhibits fluorescence, the color seen is blue. In rare instances, the reaction is yellow, white or another color.

What impact does fluorescence have on the appearance of a diamond?

GIA studies show that, for the overwhelming majority of diamonds, the strength of fluorescence has no widely noticeable effect on appearance. In many instances, observers prefer the appearance of diamonds that have medium to strong fluorescence. In rare cases, some diamonds with extremely strong fluorescence may appear hazy or oily; fewer that 0.2% of the fluorescent diamonds submitted to GIA exhibit this effect.

Does fluorescence compromise the structural integrity of the diamond?

No. A diamond that fluoresces has the same integrity as one with no reaction to UV. Submicroscopic substitutions and/or shifts in the diamond structure can cause fluorescence as well as prevent it. Nothing in either instance inherently weakens or is bad for the diamond.


Excerpt provided by GIA Gem Institute of America