All about Pearls

Freshwater Cultured Pearls

Freshwater pearls are cultured in mussels.  These pearls are generally inexpensive and can produce as many as 50 pearls at a time and normally take less than a year to grow.  When harvested the mussel can be impregnated over and over again making them very cost efficient compared to saltwater cultured pearls where the mollusk dies when harvested. The term “Chinese Pearl” often has a negative connotation, since they can be very inexpensive and of cheap quality. However, modern techniques in cultivation is yielding perfectly round pearls with a luster rivaling that of top quality Tahitian and South Sea Pearls. Freshwater pearls are evaluated following the same criteria as other cultured pearls.

Shape:

Value depends on how round it is. Although most Freshwater pearls are irregular in shape, the round ones are priced higher than oval or flat pearls.

Smoothness:

Smooth freshwater pearls are more valuable than those with bumpy or wrinkled surfaces.

Color:

Freshwater pearls come in every color and most of the white pearls 90% are bleached. Also it is important to note that most colored freshwater pearls are dyed.

Nacre Thickness:

Nacre thickness is important in both freshwater and saltwater pearls. Nacre thickness is generally high in freshwater pearls as they   do not have a bead nucleus.  But the thickness is still far lower than that of saltwater pearls and is therefore priced much lower.

Saltwater Cultured Pearls:

There three types of saltwater pearls are as follows: Akoya, Tahitian and South Sea.

Akoya: was the first pearls to be cultivated in Japan and were mostly white or cream in color. The Akoya  oyster is generally small so it does not produce a pearl larger than 9mm.  Akoya pearls are considered to be one step above freshwater in quality.

Tahitian Pearls: only on the market since the 1970’s these expensive and huge pearls appear in dramatic shades of eggplant purple, peacock green and a large variety of greys, blacks and grey blue.  Native to French Polynesia the warm nutrient rich waters of this area yield pearls 9mm up to a whopping 20mm in diameter. With its wide range of color these pearls are a favorite with jewelry designers.

South Sea Pearls are grown in the warm waters of Australia, Philippines, Indonesia, Myanmar and Thailand. This is where you will find the huge oyster, Pinctada Maxima which occur in two varieties, the silver lip which yields pearls of white, silver and slightly pinkish color and the golden lip type that yields pearls in a variety of yellow and golds.  South Sea Pearls are the biggest pearls in today’s market and have the thickest nacre of all the varieties.  Although they keep their luster for years they are very costly to produce and are therefore, more expensive due to their on average two year growing period before they can be harvested. The average size of these pearls are 9-20mm with average size being 13mm.

Things to know when buying a cushion cut diamond

Cushion Cut Diamonds

Cushion modified brilliant cut. The cushion cut, also known as the pillow cut, is probably the oldest shapes that are still popular at present times. Cushions have distinguishable curved corners and are pillow-like in shape.

Throughout the history of the diamond industry, we had seen trends that were constantly changing and cutting styles that had continuously evolved. Fashion trends seem to take up cyclic patterns and interestingly, we see the same scenarios happening with diamond cuts.

Did you know that cushion cut diamonds actually went “out-of-fashion” in the last century? It was only in recent times where retro and antique cuts came back in vogue. From old European cuts to old miner cuts, these long forgotten vintage designs are finding their way back into the mainstream market in the 21st century.

With its history of centuries, the cushion cut is ubiquitous when you take a look at the different royal family jewels. Also, if you take a look at a list of the most renowned or the biggest cut gemstones, you will see that the cushion cut is surprisingly well represented.

Cushion Shaped Diamonds in the Modern Market

Modern Style Cushion – Present Day

Nowadays, the cushion cut is just re-living its renaissance. Due to appearances amongst the Hollywood celebrities, it has regained much of its long-lost popularity. In the past, antique cushions are known for their steeper crowns, smaller tables, and larger culets. Even though they are not as fiery or brilliant as the modern round brilliants, it has a romantic and classic appeal.

Modern cushions typically have small or no culets at all because most consumers want an appearance associated with round brilliants. Instead of the broad chunky facets patterning seen in older cutting styles, modern cushion cuts also portray an outlook that is made of smaller individual facets.

What Should You Keep in Mind About Diamond Acquisition in General?

1.) Make sure that your diamond has a certificate from one of the renowned institutes like GIA or AGS. I highly recommend that you do not get a cushion cut with a clarity rating that is lower than SI1. Like the emerald shape, cushions have a tendency to show off their flaws as they are often cut with a large table facet. (table %)

2.) Due to lower brilliance and scintillation, cushions tend to “show off” their body color as compared to the rounds. If you are sensitive to seeing color in your diamond, I suggest you get a stone with a minimum of G color so that the stone will face up white.

3.) If possible, try to look at the diamond before laying your money down. And if you are looking at it, make sure that there is a jeweler’s loupe between the diamond and your eyes. Or better still; get high resolution videos/photos so that you can cross-examine the stone with ease. The important point here is to inspect the diamond under magnification.

Did you know that there are predominantly 2 types of cushion facet structures? These 2 types of cushion faceting patterns display pin fire and broad fire styles of optical characteristic. To find out more about the differences between them read on…

Should I Choose a Broad Flash or Pinfire (crushed ice) Cushion Diamond?

Cushion cut diamonds resemble the shape of those typical pillows found in every living room – and no, they are not soft and fluffy. Since the 19th century, the cushion (candlelight) cut had seen several major developments to improve its light dispersion and brilliance. This was largely due to better understanding of cut mechanics and the invention of better cleaving processes.

Speaking a little more technically, we could say that the modern cushion cut is a transition and hybrid between the Old Miner and the round brilliant cut. However, you must pay attention to what you understand by “transition”. You should not imagine them as the accurate average between them as there exists a wide range of cushions with different flavors.

Let us take a closer look at how the light reflecting properties can yield entirely different looking diamonds.

Two Types of Modern Cushion Cut Diamonds

While the modern day cushion cut may not be as fiery or brilliant as the round brilliant cut diamond with its 57-58 facets, the curved corners bring about a romantic and classical appeal. In present day, there are many variations of the cutting style and the placement of additional pavilion facets can alter the diamond’s appearance significantly.

 Broader Flash Or Pinfire Scintillation Characteristics?

The main difference between these two types can be originated from the differing size of the facets. A number of large facets yield a broader flash of fire – on the other hand, tinier facets yield smaller bursts of fire. To illustrate the idea between these two basic types, let us fantasize a little and apply imaginary alternatives to these cut types.

Let us create our analogies using the semantic field of fire. A broader flash diamond can be associated with the huge smooth flames of camp fires. On the other hand, pinfire stones could be associated with the number of sparklers put close together. Both sources of light emit light, the difference lies mainly in the size of the chunks – or quanta, if we want to use scientific lingo.

Cushion Modified Brilliant DOES NOT Equal Crushed Ice Look

Many people automatically assume that broad flash diamonds belong to the Cushion Brilliant categorization whereas the “crushed ice” appearance belongs to the Cushion Modified Brilliant categorization. This isn’t true. GIA reports indicate modified brilliants as diamonds with different faceting structures. This is usually due to the placement of additional facets on the pavilion side of the stone.

It is important to note that a diamond labeled as a Modified Brilliant may not necessarily result in a diamond with a “crushed ice” look. You would need to view the diamond (at least with a picture or video to determine its characteristics

 

 

 

How to Make the Choice Between the Two Types?

My personal opinion is that broader flash diamonds have a much more elegant, laid back feeling to them. On the other hand, pinfire diamonds are much closer to the common stereotype of the ever-sparkling diamond. Both of them can convey elegance and power in a different way.

In my experience, well cut broad flash cushions tend to have better fire and dispersion than the crushed ice types. On the other hand, well cut crushed ice cushions tend to exhibit better brilliance when compared the chunky cushions. There isn’t any right or wrong choices here as it is up to your individual preference on which kind of look you prefer.

The Hottest Bridal Trends for 2013

2013 is the year for something bold, something old, and often colorful when it comes to engagement ring trends. In response to the wave of women buying rings with diamond halo surrounds and the trend towards cushion-cut diamonds, the more adventurous of today’s engagement ring shoppers have been branching out from these classic, yet commonplace styles to express their own unique personalities. You’re seeing more and more brides-to-be wearing rings with colored stones, fancy cuts, different metals, and daring settings. These unconventional rings have become more distinctive and decorative than in previous years.

 Here’s a look at what has been setting the trend this year:

Unique and Original

Modern brides have been turning away from more traditional rings and asking for styles that better express their own individuality. There seems to be a backlash against the cookie-cutter styles of the past decade where many brides could be seen wearing similar rings. Today’s bride and brides-to-be want rings that are more memorable and uniquely theirs, the answer to this is the single or double row diamond pave surrounds and single or three sided pave diamond shanks. Many women have also added a new twist to their ring designs by replacing the clean gold shank with detailed coils and complex twists that create the perfect setting for their unique creations.  Most of these rings are fashioned to the bride’s individual taste and can be easily customized to her unique specifications. These trends are hugely popular and will continue through 2013-2014. 

Solitaire engagement rings with an elegant and unusual north-south-east-west setting have been increasingly popular. These rings typically have a round brilliant cut diamond set onto prongs arranged with a diagonal placement, which can also give the appearance of a larger stone.

Diamond eternity bands are a timeless classic, this popular wedding ring can be made either as a semi eternity or full eternity and are a beautiful complement to all engagement rings. Symbolizing the eternal nature of marriage, many brides want a simple, strong statement of their commitment and the find it in the eternity band. The eternity band is also a popular wedding anniversary gift.  

Old is New Again

The romance of past eras has found its way into the ring designs of today. The art and style of Victorian and Edwardian England, as well as the Art Deco “bling” of the Roaring Twenties can be seen in antique-styled designs made popular by such TV dramas as “Downton Abbey”.

These ring designs embrace the tradition and timeless appeal of a family heirloom with a nod to the retro-chic flair that appeals to modern sensibilities. Ornate openwork scrolls, delicate lacy filigree detailing, floral patterns, and other intricate designs add a romantic aura of chivalrous love and noble intentions. These rings make a bride feel as if she were taking part in a classic fairy tale.

Color is All the Rage

With such fashion trendsetters like Kate Middleton, Penelope Cruz and Halle Berry wearing colored gemstones such as ruby, emerald or sapphire over the traditional white diamond, there has been a surge of interest lately in engagement rings with colored center stones. Diamonds in shades of black, cognac and champagne browns, and especially the fancy yellows have been the most popular of the colored diamonds this year.

 Shapes, Settings, and Mixing Metals

 Another trend this year has seen women looking for diamond cuts that are different than what has been the norm over the past decade. Cushion, emerald, and princess cuts have been strong sellers though the more traditional round brilliant cut diamond still outsells all these other shapes.

 Brides are also getting creative with the settings and metals used. Where traditionally most rings would be gold or platinum, nowadays you're seeing many more exotic settings (like Kat Von D's black diamond and skulls ring). There are also many people who are taking a mixed-metal approach by stacking or twisting white, yellow, and rose gold into cool, modern statements that really stand out and start conversations.

 At  Ex Aurum we are pleased to provide high quality custom design bridal jewelry at wholesale prices. Our experience and quality is second to none. Please visit our website or call and make an appointment to see our fine jewelry.   It will be our pleasure to serve you.

Phillips Square - The origins of Montreal's Diamond District

Phillips Square and architect Claude Cormier

Montreal's Phillips Square is named for Thomas Phillips, a building contractor and city councillor who bought the land from fur trader Joseph Frobisher. Phillips died in 1842, and the land the square now sits on was donated by his widow to be used as a perpetual memorial to her husband.

In 1842, the square was first laid out in what was at the time a growing wealthy residential area on the fringe of the city of Montreal. The first merchant to open a business on Phillips Square was Alfred Joyce, known to be a "high class caterer and confectioner” and one-time mayor of the town of Outremont who built an elegant shop on the south side of the square in 1878. In 1891, Morgan’s department store, now "The Bay", established itself on the north side of the square.

The head office of Henry Birks and Sons was built soon after on the west side of the square in 1894. In 1910, another building was built on the square. Now designated as 620 Cathcart, it was originally named the “New Birks Building” and was used in part for the growing needs of Henry Birks and Sons. At 130 feet, it was at the maximum height allowed in the city at that time as that was as high a fire ladder could reach.

The square features a bronze statue of Britain’s King Edward VII, who ruled from 1901 to 1910. He visited Montreal in 1860, when he was still the Prince of Wales, to open the Victoria Bridge, named after his mother. The statue was erected in 1914.

The Birks Building was constructed at a time when the abutting elite residential area known as “The Golden Mile” was becoming the hub of the nations wealthiest families. In fact, 70% of all wealth in Canada was firmly in the hands of this small group. It was a natural place for merchants like watchmakers, silversmiths and jewellers to locate their businesses.

By 1923 Birks was the second largest jewellry store in the world; only Tiffany’s of New York was larger than Birks. A booming mail order business kept the Birks craftsmen busy, bolstered by American tourists. At that time Canada had no duty on diamonds, and a set diamond was subject to 45% duty in the US.

In more modern times, the jewelry trade has evolved, and is now largely made up of independent craftsmen. But the legacy of the presence of Henry Birks still exists in the fact that the bulk of Montreal’s leading edge designers, diamond dealers and jewellers still ply their trade in the many offices that line the square.

Ex Aurum Jewellers is proud to continue this tradition of fine handcrafted jewelry in Phillips Square. While our clients come from a broader spectrum of society than the area once catered to, they are still no less important to us.

GARNET - THE JANUARY STONE

There are many myths and legends surrounding the garnet.  One Biblical legend is that Noah hung this gem on the ark to light his way through the dark and stormy nights of God's wrath.  A Greek myth linked to the garnet is the story of the young goddess of sunshine, Persephone, who was abducted by Hades, god of the underworld. Hades eventually released Persephone, but not before he offered her some pomegranate seeds, which guaranteed her return to him. 

First mined in Sri Lanka over 2,500 years ago, the garnet is also found in Africa, Australia, India, Russia, South America; and in the United States, in Arizona and Idaho.  Although most commonly known as a red gemstone, the garnet comes in a variety of other hues, including muted yellows, vibrant oranges, rosy pinks, lime greens, and violets—a virtual bouquet of colors.  This diversity is due to unique combinations of elements within each particular gem, such as iron, calcium, and manganese. 

Archaeologist findings of primitive style garnet jewelry among the graves of lake dwellers dates the early use of this gemstone to the Bronze age.  But not all garnet is of gem quality.   It is also a very effective abrasive and is used commercially for grinding and polishing.  Garnet coated sandpaper is one such industrial use.  

The garnet continues to be the protective gem of journeyers. A gift of garnet is thought to be symbolic of love and the desire for a loved one's safe travel and speedy homecoming.  It is January's birthstone, but far from being only a winter gem, the garnet, with its brilliance and multitude of colors, is truly one for any season.

ALL ABOUT EMERALDS

Emerald

Emeralds are fascinating gemstones. They have the most beautiful, most intense and most radiant green that can possibly be imagined: emerald green. Inclusions are tolerated. In top quality, fine emeralds are even more valuable than diamonds.

The name emerald comes from the Greek 'smaragdos' via the Old French 'esmeralde', and really just means 'green gemstone'. Innumerable fantastic stories have grown up around this magnificent gem. The Incas and Aztecs of South America, where the best emeralds are still found today, regarded the emerald as a holy gemstone. However, probably the oldest known finds were once made near the Red Sea in Egypt. Having said that, these gemstone mines, already exploited by Egyptian pharaohs between 3000 and 1500 B.C. and later referred to as 'Cleopatra's Mines', had already been exhausted by the time they were rediscovered in the early 19th century.

Written many centuries ago, the Vedas, the holy scriptures of the Indians, say of the precious green gems and their healing properties: 'Emeralds promise good luck ...'; and 'The emerald enhances the well-being ...'. So it was no wonder that the treasure chests of Indian maharajas and maharanis contained wonderful emeralds. One of the world's largest is the so-called 'Mogul Emerald'. It dates from 1695, weighs 217.80 carats, and is some 10cm tall. One side of it is inscribed with prayer texts, and engraved on the other there are magnificent floral ornaments. This legendary emerald was auctioned by Christie's of London to an unidentified buyer for 2.2m US Dollars on September 28th 2001.

Emeralds have been held in high esteem since ancient times. For that reason, some of the most famous emeralds are to be seen in museums and collections. The New York Museum of Natural History, for example, has an exhibit in which a cup made of pure emerald which belonged to the Emperor Jehangir is shown next to the 'Patricia', one of the largest Colombian emerald crystals, which weighs 632 carats. The collection of the Bank of Bogota includes five valuable emerald crystals with weights of between 220 and 1796 carats, and splendid emeralds also form part of the Iranian National Treasury, adorning, for example, the diadem of the former Empress Farah. The Turkish sultans also loved emeralds. In Istanbul's Topkapi Palace there are exhibits with items of jewellery, writing-implements and daggers, each lavishly adorned with emeralds and other gems.

The green of life and of love
The green of the emerald is the colour of life and of the springtime, which comes round again and again. But it has also, for centuries, been the colour of beauty and of constant love. In ancient Rome, green was the colour of Venus, the goddess of beauty and love. And today, this colour still occupies a special position in many cultures and religions. Green, for example, is the holy colour of Islam. Many of the states of the Arab League have green in their flags as a symbol of the unity of their faith. Yet this colour has a high status in the Catholic Church too, where green is regarded as the most natural and the most elemental of the liturgical colours.

The magnificent green of the emerald is a colour which conveys harmony, love of Nature and elemental joie de vivre. The human eye can never see enough of this unique colour. Pliny commented that green gladdened the eye without tiring it. Green is perceived as fresh and vivid, never as monotonous. And in view of the fact that this colour always changes somewhat between the bright light of day and the artificial light of a lamp, emerald green retains its lively vigour in all its nuances.

Fingerprints of nature
The lively luminosity of its colour makes the emerald a unique gemstone. However, really good quality is fairly rare, with inclusions often marring the evenness of the colour – signs of the turbulent genesis which has characterised this gemstone. Fine inclusions, however, do not by any means diminish the high regard in which it is held. On the contrary: even with inclusions, an emerald in a deep, lively green still has a much higher value than an almost flawless emerald whose colour is paler. Affectionately, and rather poetically, the specialists call the numerous crystal inclusions, cracks or fissures which are typical of this gemstone 'jardin'. They regard the tender little green plants in the emerald garden as features of the identity of a gem which has grown naturally.

So where do they come from and how is it that they exist at all? In order to answer these questions, we need to look far, far back into the time of the emerald's origin. Emeralds from Zimbabwe are among the oldest gemstones anywhere in the world. They were already growing 2600 million years ago, whilst some specimens from Pakistan, for example, are a mere 9 million years young. From a chemical-mineralogical point of view, emeralds are beryllium-aluminium-silicates with a good hardness of 7.5 to 8, and belong, like the light blue aquamarine, the tender pink morganite, the golden heliodor and the pale green beryl, to the large gemstone family of the beryls. Pure beryl is colourless. The colours do not occur until traces of some other element are added. In the case of the emerald, it is mainly traces of chromium and vanadium which are responsible for the fascinating colour. Normally, these elements are concentrated in quite different parts of the Earth's crust to beryllium, so the emerald should, strictly speaking, perhaps not exist at all. But during intensive tectonic processes such as orogenesis, metamorphism, emergences and erosion of the land, these contrasting elements found each other and crystallised out to make one of our most beautiful gemstones. The tension involved in the geological conditions conducive to the above processes produced some minor flaws, and some major ones. A glance through the magnifying-glass or microscope into the interior of an emerald tells us something about the eventful genesis of this unique gem: here we see small or large fissures; here the sparkle of a mini-crystal or a small bubble; here shapes of all kinds. While the crystals were still growing, some of these manifestations had the chance to 'heal', and thus the jagged three-phase inclusions typical of Colombian emeralds were formed: cavities filled with fluid, which often also contain a small bubble of gas and some tiny crystals.

Logically enough, a genesis as turbulent as that of the emerald impedes the undisturbed formation of large, flawless crystals. For this reason, it is only seldom that a large emerald with good colour and good transparency is found. That is why fine emeralds are so valuable. But for the very reason that the emerald has such a stormy past, it is surely entitled to show it - that is, as long as only a fine jardin is to be seen, and not a rank garden which spoils both colour and transparency.

The world of fine emeralds
Colombia continues to be at the top of the list in terms of the countries in which fine emeralds are found. It has about 150 known deposits, though not all of these are currently being exploited. The best known names are Muzo and Chivor, where emeralds were mined by the Incas in pre-Columbian times. In economic terms, the most important mine is at Coscuez, where some 60 faces are being worked. According to estimates, approximately three quarters of Colombia's emerald production now comes from the Coscuez Mine. Colombian emeralds differ from emeralds from other deposits in that they have an especially fine, shining emerald green unimpaired by any kind of bluish tint. The colour may vary slightly from find to find. This fascinatingly beautiful colour is so highly esteemed in the international emerald trade that even obvious inclusions are regarded as acceptable. But Colombia has yet more to offer: now and then the Colombian emerald mines throw up rarities such as Trapiche emeralds with their six rays emanating from the centre which resemble the spokes of a millwheel.

Even if many of the best emeralds are undisputedly of Colombian origin, the 'birthplace' of a stone is never an absolute guarantee of its immaculate quality. Fine emeralds are also found in other countries, such as Zambia, Brazil, Zimbabwe, Madagascar, Pakistan, India, Afghanistan and Russia. Zambia, Zimbabwe and Brazil in particular have a good reputation for fine emeralds in the international trade. Excellent emerald crystals in a beautiful, deep emerald green and with good transparency come from Zambia. Their colour is mostly darker than that of Colombian emeralds and often has a fine, slightly bluish undertone. Emeralds which are mostly smaller, but very fine, in a vivacious, intense green come from Zimbabwe's famous Sandawana Mine, and they often have a delicate yellowish-green nuance. And the famous emerald mines of Colombia currently face competition from right next door: Brazil's gemstone mine Nova Era also produces emeralds in beautiful green tones, and if they are less attractive than those of their famous neighbour it is only by a small margin. Brazil also supplies rare emerald cat's eyes and extremely rare emeralds with a six-spoked star. Thanks to the finds in Africa and Brazil, there are more emeralds on the market now than there used to be - to the delight of emerald enthusiasts - .

A sophisticated gemstone
Whilst its good hardness protects the emerald to a large extent from scratches, its brittleness and its many fissures can make cutting, setting and cleaning rather difficult. Even for a skilled gem cutter, cutting emeralds presents a special challenge, firstly because of the high value of the raw crystals, and secondly because of the frequent inclusions. However, this does not detract from the cutters' love of this unique gem. Indeed, they have developed a special cut just for this gem: the emerald cut. The clear design of this rectangular or square cut with its bevelled corners brings out the beauty of this valuable gemstone to the full, at the same time protecting it from mechanical strain.

Emeralds are also cut in many other, mainly classical shapes, but if the raw material contains a large number of inclusions, it may often be cut into a gently rounded cabochon, or into one of the emerald beads which are so popular in India.

Today, many emeralds are enhanced with colourless oils or resins. This is a general trade practice, but it does have the consequence that these green treasures react very sensitively to inappropriate treatment. For example, they cannot be cleaned in an ultrasonic bath. The substances that may have been used by the cutter during his work, or applied subsequently, seal the fine pores in the surface of the gem. Removing them will end up giving the stone a matt appearance. For this reason, emerald rings should always be taken off before the wearer puts his or her hands in water containing cleansing agent.

A matter of trust
Unfortunately, because the emerald is not only one of the most beautiful gemstones, but also one of the most valuable, there are innumerable synthetics and imitations. So how can you protect yourself from these 'fakes'? Well, the best way is to buy from a specialist in whom you have confidence. Large emeralds in particular should only be purchased with a report from a reputable gemmological institute. Such an institute will be able, thanks to the most modern examination techniques, to differentiate reliably between natural and synthetic emeralds, and will inform you as to whether the stone has undergone any treatment of the kind a purchaser has the right to know about.

And one more piece of advice on the purchase of an emerald: whilst diamonds generously scintillate their fire in sizes below 1 carat, you should go for larger dimensions when acquiring a coloured gemstone. True, there are some lovely pieces of jewellery with small coloured gems to set decorative accents, but emeralds, like other coloured gemstones, do not really begin to show that beautiful glow below a certain size. How large 'your' emerald ends up will depend on your personal taste, and on your budget. Really large specimens of top quality are rare. This means that the price of a top-quality emerald may be higher than that of a diamond of the same weight. The fascination exuded by a fine emerald is simply unique.

BLUE TOPAZ - THE DECEMBER STONE

White Gold Sapphire and Topaz Pendant

What is the birthstone for December?

There are actually three different stones associated with being the birthstone of December: the blue topaz, turquoise, and tanzanite. All three of these very different have one thing in common: a unique blue color that makes them perfect for use in birthstone jewelry or many kinds of fashionable and creative jewelry. But each of these stones also has unique characteristics and properties that make it special, so before choosing a December birthstone gift for yourself or a loved one, get to know each of these stones so you’ll be able to pick the perfect gemstone gift.

December birthstone: Blue Topaz

The most famous birthstone for December is the blue topaz, a variation on the common gem topaz. Topaz becomes blue when it is heated, a process that can happen naturally or artificially, and results in three shades of blue that varies in its intensity. The more intense and deep the color is, the more valuable the blue topaz is, although the most deep shade, London Blue, never occurs in nature and is only produced by gemological produces. Slight changes in the mineral composition, however, can create topaz with hues of green, yellow or pink.

The cool blue shade of the blue topaz, reminiscent of a clear mountain lake or a crisp, cold December sky, has made it a favorite for all kinds of jewelry for thousands of years. The ancient Greeks felt that its cooling effect could have the power of calming the temper and balancing one’s mental state. Some people believed that a topaz could even cool boiling water, perhaps because of its resemblance to a chunk of cold blue ice! Even today, blue topaz is said to represent love and loyalty, making it a romantic present as well as the perfect birthstone for December, the gift-giving month! Blue topaz is very well suited for use in fashionable jewelry like chandelier earrings and cocktail rings because it has a gem hardness level of 8 on the Mohs scale, making it durable and strong.

AQUAMARINE - THE MARCH STONE

Aquamarine is one of our most popular and best-known gemstones, and distinguishes itself by many good qualities. It is almost as popular as the classics: ruby, sapphire and emerald. In fact it is related to the emerald, both belonging to the beryl family. The colour of aquamarine, however, is usually more even than that of the emerald. Much more often than its famous green cousin, aquamarine is almost entirely free of inclusions. Aquamarine has good hardness (7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale) and a wonderful shine. That hardness makes it very tough and protects it to a large extent from scratches. Iron is the substance which gives aquamarine its colour, a colour which ranges from an almost indiscernible pale blue to a strong sea-blue. The more intense the colour of an aquamarine, the more value is put on it. Some aquamarines have a light, greenish shimmer; that too is a typical feature. However, it is a pure, clear blue that continues to epitomise the aquamarine, because it brings out so well the immaculate transparency and magnificent shine of this gemstone.
 
'Santa Maria' sets pulses racing
The bright blue of this noble beryl is making more and more friends. The various colour nuances of aquamarine have melodious names: the rare, intense blue aquamarines from the Santa Maria de Itabira mine in Brazil, which make every gemstone lover's heart beat faster, are called 'Santa Maria'. Similar nuances come from a few gemstone mines in Africa, particularly Mozambique. To help distinguish them from the Brazilian ones, these aquamarines have been given the name 'Santa Maria Africana'. The 'Espirito Santo' colour of aquamarines from the Brazilian state of that name is of a blue that is not quite so intense. Yet other qualities are embodied in the stones from Fortaleza and Marambaia. One beautiful aquamarine colour was named after the Brazilian beauty queen of 1954, and has the name 'Martha Rocha'.
It can be seen from the names of aquamarine colours just how important Brazil is among the countries where aquamarine is found. Most of the raw crystals for the world market come from the gemstone mines of that large South American country. Every now and then, large aquamarine crystals of immaculate transparency are also found with a magnificent colour, a combination which is very unusual in gemstones. And very occasionally, sensationally large aquamarine crystals come to light in Brazil, such as the crystal of 110.5 Kg found in 1910 in Marambaia/Minas Gerais, or for example the 'Dom Pedro', weighing 26 Kg and cut in Idar-Oberstein in 1992 by the gemstone designer Bernd Munsteiner, the largest aquamarine ever to have been cut. However, aquamarines are also found in other countries, for example Nigeria, Zambia, Madagascar, Mozambique, Afghanistan and Pakistan.

AMETHYST - THE FEBRUARY STONE

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The gemstone Amethyst is the Birthstone for February. It is also the Zodiac stone for the constellation of Pisces. Amethyst is associated with spirituality, wisdom, sobriety, and security.Amethyst is the purple variety of the mineral quartz and is a popular gemstone. Although it must always be purple to be amethyst, it can and does have a wide range of purple shades. Its color is unparalleled, and even other, more expensive purple gemstones are often compared to its color and beauty. If it were not for its widespread availability, amethyst would be very expensive.
The name "amethyst" comes from the Greek and means "not drunken." This was perhaps due to a belief that amethyst would ward off the effects of alcohol, but most likely the Greeks were referring to the almost wine-like color of some stones that they may have encountered.
Amethyst can occur as long prismatic crystals that have a six sided pyramid at either end or can form as druzes that are crystalline crusts that only show the pointed terminations. As a mineral specimen, amethyst is popular for its color and nice crystal shapes that produce a handsome, purple, sparkling cluster.
 The color purple is traditionally the color of royalty and amethyst has been used since the dawn of history to adorn the rich and powerful monarchs and rulers. Today, amethyst is a lovely and affordable gemstone that is fortunately available in a wide variety of cut and uncut stones that we can all possess and admire.

White diamonds or Lady Di ( a la Kate Middleton)

White diamonds or colored stones a la Kate Middleton.  White diamonds are the number #1 choice for engagement and bridal jewelry. But if you are working with a smaller budget and the bride likes a big ring, a colored stone such as a blue sapphire looks really wonderful with a pave diamond surround like the Princess Di ring and is a good option to consider.  Sapphires come in all qualities and a jeweler will bring in several choices at different price points for you to see.

Bridemaid gifts - what to give

"What do I buy my bridemaids?", this is a question we hear often usually a week or two before the big day when money is scarce and the budget practically non existent. Shopping for the bridesmaid gifts seems to happen when wedding bills are due and budgets have been stretched to the max.  Pearl jewelry is the classic bridesmaid gift.  Understated and elegant.  With the vast choice of freshwater pearls available in today's market you can buy a really lovely bracelet, earrings or pendant for the bridesmaids at a fraction of the cost of Japanese pearls and they virtually look the same.  Depending on the budget you can get pearls in all price ranges.  Pearls are a jewel box basic and go with everything.

Trend Predictions for 2013

Trends for bridal jewelry is still white gold or platinum with micro pave halos and pave shanks with milligrain detailing.  These rings bring to mind the timeless elegance of the early 1900's, when rings were crafted by hand. These rings are the trend in 2012 and we see it continuing into 2013.  With regards to fashion jewelry, we are selling more pink and yellow gold jewelry than in the past and this trend seems to be getting stronger every year.  Another trend is for rings that maintain their white color and in response to this we offer 19 karat white gold, a super white that doesn't yellow over time.

Three important things to consider when choosing a wedding band

When choosing a wedding band, the buyer has to consider his/her lifestyle in order to decide whether the band should be made of 14 karat or 18 karat gold.  If you work a lot with your hands 14 karat gold, due to the higher alloy content, would be the best choice.  Platinum is also a good option though pricey. 
Comfort fit bands are definitely the best option for guys who don't normally wear rings because the inside of the ring is smoothed and rounded making it very comfortable to wear.
Style and design are also important factors to consider when buying a band. Ask yourself if the band will still look good in 10,15,20 years or will you tire of it over time. Should you buy yellow or white gold or two-tone? A classic style will always retain its appeal and look good over time.  Trendy items are "in" one day and "out" the next.

November Birthstone - Topaz and Citrine

Topaz

Topaz is a gemstone available in a rich rainbow of colors. Prized for several thousand years in antiquity, all yellow gems in antiquity were called topaz. Often confused with citrine quartz (yellow) and smoky quartz (brown), quartz and topaz are separate and unrelated mineral species. The most prized color of topaz is called Imperial topaz after the Russian Czars of the 1800s and features a magnificent orange body color with pinkish undertones. Topaz also comes in yellow, pink, purple, orange, and the many popular blue tones.

Citrine

Citrine, the other birthstone for November is known as the "healing quartz". This golden gemstone is said to support vitality and health while encouraging and guiding hope, energy and warmth within the wearer. Citrine can be found in a variety of shades ranging from pastel yellow to dark brownish orange. It is one of the most affordable of gemstones and plentiful in nature. Citrine is found most frequently in Brazil, Bolivia, and Spain.

October Birthstone - Tourmaline and Opal

Tourmaline

Tourmaline has become a favorite gemstone among jewelry designer, and gem collectors the world over. Since it is available in a wide variety of colors, it is ideally suited to almost anyone's taste. Tourmaline also is known for displaying several colors in the same gemstone.  These bi-color or tri-color gems are formed in many combinations; gemstones with clear color distinctions are highly prized.  One multi-color variety is known as watermelon tourmaline, and features green, pink, and white colors bands; to resemble its namesake, the gemstone is cut into thin slices having a pink center, white ring, and green edge.  Tourmaline is found in many localities including Brazil, Afghanistan, East Africa, and the USA.

Opal

The name opal derives from the Greek Opallos, meaning "to see a change (of color)."  Opals range in color from milky white to black with flashes of yellow, orange, green, red, and blue. An opal's beauty is the product of contrast between its color play and its background.  Opal is a formation of non-crystalline silica gel that seeped into crevices in the sedimentary strata. Through time and nature's heating and molding processes, the gel hardened into the form of opals. The opal is composed of particles closely packed in spherical arrangements. When packed together in a regular pattern, a three-dimensional array of spaces are created that give opal its radiance.

All about Csarite

Csarite

Relatively new to the jewelry world, Csarite ( old trade name Zultanite) or aka Diaspore, which is the actual name of the gem material, is one gemstone whose amazing natural color changing abilities makes it well suited to savvy jewelry connoisseurs. As you watch its colors change from kiwi to champagne to raspberry, you too will be entranced by Csarite's 100% natural beauty. The pinnacle of exclusivity, beauty, rarity and desirability, Csarite is a rising star in fine jewelry due to its sparklingly brilliant tranquil colors. Like Tanzanite, Csarite is so rare that it comes to you from only one source in the world, a remote mountain area in Anatolia, Turkey. Named by Murat Akgun in honor of the 36 sultans who ruled the Ottoman Empire in Anatolia in the late 13th century, Csarite is a true Turkish delight
A gem that changes color?
Color change gems show different colors when viewed under different light sources, such as sunlight and indoor light. Astonishingly beautiful, exotic and rare, Zultanite demands a double take - its unique color change is truly that mesmerizing. If for you fashion is all about getting attention, Csarite is set to redefine your look.
While some of Csarite's key characteristics are its delicate color saturation, durability and play of light, the beauty and intrigue of this regal gemstone ultimately lies in its different colors. Csarite displays a range of earthy hues and similar to the famous color change gem Alexandrite, it can change from kiwi greens in sunlight (candescent light) to raspberry purplish-pinks in candlelight (incandescent light). But unlike other color change gems such as Alexandrite, Csarite's color change is not limited to two basic colors. Incredibly, the same Csarite can also exhibit khaki greens, sage greens, cognac pinks, pinkish champagnes, canary yellows, rich champagnes and gingers in different light sources. Csarite's kiwi greens with canary flashes are noticeable under sunny skies, while traditional indoor lighting will elicit rich champagne colors. During a candle lit dinner, the same gem reveals pink to raspberry hues. While just wearing Csarite unveils its breathtakingly diverse colors, one of its most unique characteristics is that unlike other color changes gems, Csarite's best color change is not dependant on dark tones. Some women prefer the colors of Csarite because they like the more subtle pastel contrast and find they complement earth tones (green, chocolate, mocha and gold), making the gem more wearable. Like all color change gemstones, the larger the Csarite, the more visible the color change.

September Birthstone - Sapphire

All About Sapphires

Sapphire colors
Blue is the most famous of the sapphire colors. The prized Kashmire and Burmese sapphires have a deep blue that is intense and velvety. These sapphires are not often seen on the market today. Sri Lankan (Ceylon) and Madagascar sapphires are the most common today, with a wide range of colors from light sky blue to dark blue. Other producers of blue sapphire are Australia, Tanzania, Thailand, Cambodia, and the USA (Montana).

Colorless corundum is rare as faint shades of color are nearly always present. Many small white sapphires used in inexpensive jewelry as a diamond simulant are synthetic and white sapphire in general are relatively cheap.

Purple sapphire is rare, but found in Sri Lanka and Tanzania. Iron and titanium impurities together may cause the purple hue of the stone.

Much yellow sapphire is on the lighter side and usually free of inclusions. Heat treatment can produce a more intense yellow golden color. Beryllium-treated sapphire may be a brilliant yellow, pinkish orange, orange and recently vivid blue.  These stones are found in Sri Lanka, Thailand, Australia, Tanzania and Madagascar.

Padparadscha is the Sinhalese word for a Sri Lankan lotus flower. This very rare sapphire color should have a pink and orange color simultaneously. Color, brilliance, size and clarity will determine the value of these stones. Many stones of this color are beryllium treated and are priced much lower than a true padparadscha. A true padparadscha  as well as the treated counterpart always have a hint of pink, they look the same so be careful and always buy from an accredited jeweller who will certify the sapphire.

Many sapphires that appear green consist of fine alternating bands of blue and yellow sapphire, which may be visible under the microscope. Green sapphires are found in Thailand, Sri Lanka, Australia, and Madagascar and are usually a dull green color.

Color
With blue sapphire, the most popular color, the intensity of blue as the most important factor. For example, you may have a huge stone of many carats, but if the color is a washed-out, weak blue, then the value of the stone will be lower. Look for a stone that has an intense, rich medium blue (royal blue) without being dark or inky (navy blue). Overall, sapphires that are too dark or too light in color are valued less. However, light blue sapphires often have a brilliance that is rarely found in the darker stones.

Lighting
Sapphires look best viewed with fluorescent light or daylight. Incandescent light is more red, and sapphires look less attractive in this lighting.

Clarity
Sapphire tends to have less inclusions than ruby. Look for stones that are eye-clean. This means no inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. Actually, extremely fine silk throughout the stone can enhance the value of some sapphires. The famous sapphires from Kashmir have a velvety blue color which is caused by this fine silk. This silk is needed for the star effect in star sapphire, however, too much silk weakens the color, making it appear undesirably grayish.

Cut
Various shapes and cutting styles are common with sapphires. Ovals, cushions, and rounds are seen, as are other shapes, such as the heart or emerald cut. Round stones can command a small premium. Sapphire crystals are hexagonal in habit so when they are cut in a round shape a lot of the rough is lost so this is why round shapes are more expensive. Oval cut sapphires use most of the rough and are more common.  Cabochon-cut sapphires are also common. Used for star stones, the best cabochons are somewhat transparent, with smooth domes of good symmetry.

Common Sapphire treatments
The most common treatment for sapphire is heat treatment. Stones are heated (generally before they are cut) to between 1700 to 1800 degrees Celsius (3100-3300 degrees F) for several hours. Almost all sapphires today are heated, and the stones of rich blue that are not heated can command enormous prices in today's market. Some blue sapphires may also be diffusion treated and care must be taken not to polish these stones as the color is only skin deep and comes off when the stones are polished, though this treatment is more common for star sapphires. Rich blue sapphires are now on the market that are diffusion and beryllium treated. Beryllium treatment is being used to produce stunning orange and red colors that were once rarely seen. All sapphire treatments should be fully disclosed by any reputable dealer.

All the rest you need to know
Sapphires come from Thailand, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Tanzania and Australia. The United States, Cambodia, Nigeria, Kenya and China also produce some sapphires. Perhaps the most famous sources for sapphires are the Kashmir region of India, and Burma. Discovered over 100 years ago, the Kashmir sapphire has a lovely, velvety blue color prized by gem lovers. Burmese sapphires can also be fine, but like the Kashmir region, these two areas today produce very little material.

Today Sri Lanka and Madagascar produces most of the fine sapphires on the market. You can find a wide range of beautiful blues, from soft sky blue colors to deeply saturated hues. In addition, the Kanchanaburi region in Thailand and the Pailin region in Cambodia are renowned for deep blue sapphires. Tanzania, an old producer of sapphires in other colors, is now starting to produce blue sapphire from new deposits in the south.

August Birthstone - Peridot

August Birthstone

Peridot (pronounced pair-e--doe) is the gem variety of olivine. Peridot is the birthstone for August and the Zodiac stone for the constellation Libra (astrological sources refer to peridot as Chrysolite). Peridot is associated with the values of fame, dignity, protection, and success.

Olivine, which is actually not an official mineral, is composed of two minerals: fayalite and forsterite. Fayalite is the iron rich member and forsterite is the magnesium rich member. Olivine's formula is written as (Mg, Fe)₂SiO₄ to show the substitution of the magnesium and iron. Peridot is usually closer to forsterite than fayalite in composition although iron is the coloring agent for peridot. The best colored peridot has an iron percentage of less than 15% and includes nickel and chromium as trace elements that may also contribute to the best peridot color.


Gem quality peridot comes from the ancient source of Zagbargad (Zebirget) Island in the Red Sea off the coast of Egypt; Mogok, Myanmar (formerly known as Burma); Kohistan, Pakistan; Minas Gerais, Brazil; Eifel, Germany; Chihuahua, Mexico; Ethiopia; Australia; Peridot Mesa, San Carlos Apache Reservation, Gila County, Arizona and Salt Lake Crater, Oahu, Hawaii, USA. The best quality peridot has historically come either from Myanmar or Egypt. But new sources in Pakistan are challenging that claim with some exceptional specimens. The Arizona gem material is of lesser quality, but is far more abundant and is therefore much more affordable. An estimated 80 - 95% of all world production of peridot comes from Arizona. The Myanmar, Pakistani and Egyptian gems are rarer and of better quality and thus quite valuable approaching the per carat values of top gemstones. Possibly the most unusual peridot is that which comes from iron-nickel meteorites called pallasites. Some are actually facetted and set in jewelry.

All about Fancy Colored Diamonds

 When a diamond sparkles with brilliant, intense color, it is a gem of great rarity and beauty. These extraordinary gems are known as "Fancy Colored Diamonds". If you did not know that diamonds came in colors, they do and are very rare. Only 1% of the diamonds mined are naturally colored diamonds. The two most famous diamonds in the world are colored diamonds. The Tiffany Diamond is a magnificent Fancy Yellow, 128.54 carat diamond and the Hope Diamond is a stunning blue. The most expensive diamond per carat weight is a 1 carat red valued at around $2.2 million. The rarest and most valuable colored diamonds are red, blue, pink and green.

Fancy Colored Diamonds have proven to be a sound investment. Most Canadians and Americans are not even aware of the phenomenon of Fancy Colored Diamonds because most of the highly graded colored diamonds are purchased in Europe. Europeans consider colored diamonds the same as "money in the bank". They are the best form of portable wealth in the world today, and they have a stunning track record. Pinks and Blues have increased so substantially that they are out of reach for most investors. A high quality Pink or Blue Fancy Colored Diamond has increased from $10,000.00 a carat in 1970 to $400,000.00 a carat today. That is an amazing return on investment and Fancy Colored Diamonds have NEVER decreased in price on a wholesale level in 35 years. Today, colored diamonds are so rare that prices keep escalating.

Color Color Color

Simply, the most important factor when evaluating a Colored Diamond is the intensity of the color. The more intense the color, the more valuable the diamond is. The grading scale for Fancy Colored Diamonds is: "Faint", "Very Light", "Light", "Fancy Light", "Fancy", "Fancy Intense", "Fancy Deep", "Fancy Vivid". In a white diamond clarity is very important, and An “SI”, "VS" or "VVS" is what you would look for. However, in a colored diamond clarity is not the most important factor. A Fancy Colored Diamond that is graded SI is still considered "eye clean", meaning that the inclusions cannot be seen with the naked eye. Also, small pinpoints or feathers do not usually affect Fancy Colors due to the deep coloring of the diamond. Fancy Colored Diamonds that are graded  VVS or FLAWLESS are uncommon in nature and command greater prices.

Cut and Shape 

Fancy Colored Diamonds achieve maximum brilliance when cut to the most ideal and accurate proportions. A good cut gives a Fancy Colored Diamond sparkle and brings out the most intense color possible. The Cutter considers its inclusions, which can enhance the diamond's color. Facets and angles also give color to the diamond, so the Master Cutter must consider which shape would best bring out the diamond's color. The most popular shapes are round/brilliant, oval, radiant, cushion, princess, and the heart.

Pink Diamonds

Natural Pink Diamonds are very rare and extremely valuable. They account for less than 1% of the mines overall production. No wonder Pink Diamonds have increased from $10,000.00 a carat to over $400,000.00 a carat. Pink Diamonds are divided into 5 color catagories: Pink, Purplish Pink, Brownish Pink, Orangey Pink, and Pink Champagne. Fancy Intense Pinks are very rare and one of the most beautiful diamonds in existance today. Pink Diamonds with no secondary coloring are the rarest and most expensive of all Pink Diamonds. The color pink ranges from "Faint" to "Fancy Intense and Vivid Pink", by far the rarest and most valuable.

Yellows

The Tiffany Diamond is one of the largest Fancy Yellow Diamonds ever discovered. It weighed 287.42 carats in the rough when it was discovered in 1878 in the Kimberly mines in South Africa, and was cut to a cushion shape of 128.54 carats. It is rumored to be valued at $250,000,000.00. The Kimberly Octahedron is the largest diamond in the world at 616 carats, and is also a yellow diamond.
Natural Intense Fancy Yellow Diamonds are so rare that most jewelers have never seen one and will never own one. Among the 100 largest diamonds in the world about 30 are yellow, and just one is a Fancy Yellow.
Fancy Yellow, Fancy Intense Yellow and Fancy Vivid Yellows are becoming very difficult to find. Yellow diamonds will increase in price much more than any other colored diamond percentage wise. While Pinks and Blues have made huge price increases over the past 30 years and have increased from $10,000.00 a carat to $400,000.00 a carat, Yellow diamonds are still affordable and prices should increase substantially as high quality Yellow diamonds become more and more scarce.

July Birthstone - Ruby

Ruby colors
Rubies range in color from pinkish to orangey and purplish and brownish red, depending on the chromium and iron content of the stone. The most desirable color is the so-called "pigeon's blood", a pure red with a hint of blue.

Buying Ruby
Color is the most important consideration, with clarity a distant second. Large rubies are rare.

Color
The most desirable color is the so-called "pigeon's blood", a pure red with a hint of blue. Color saturation makes all the difference.

Lighting
Ruby shows pleochroism which means that the color varies with the direction of viewing. Stones displaying the cat's eye or star effect effect are best viewed in daylight.
Many rubies will fluoresce in long or short wave UV and this property can often be used to help identify a stone's geographic origin. Burmese rubies often fluoresce so strongly that the effect is noticeable even in sunlight; such stones seem literally to glow. Thai rubies generally lack this property.

Clarity
Inclusions are common in ruby and not always an indication of lower quality. Included rutile needles cause the "silky shine". If such a stone is cut en cabochon it exposes the rare cat's eye effect. Oriented rutile crystal inclusions cause a six-rayed-star light effect (called asterism) to form the popular star ruby.

Cut
Transparent rubies are cut in step and brilliant cut. Less transparent rubies are cut en cabochon.

Ruby location and deposits
Myanmar: For centuries the most important deposits are in upper Myanmar (Burma) near Mogok. Only one percent of the production is of gem quality. Some of the rubies are of pigeon's blood color and considered to be the most valuable rubies of all. In the early 1990's large new deposits were discovered at Mong Hsu.

Thailand: Rubies found in Thailand (Chanthaburi district) often have a brown or violet tint. The Thai ruby production is declining, and Chanthaburi is now mainly a center for processing and trading gems.

Sri Lanka: The deposits are located in the southwest of the island in the Ratnapura district. Rubies from that deposits are usually light red to raspberry red.

Madagascar: in the 1990's major ruby deposits were discovered in this huge island off the coast of Mozambique. Madagascar is now one of the world's leading ruby producers.

Tanzania: On the upper Umba River in northwest Tanzania are deposits for gemstone quality rubies that are violet to brown-red. A few opaque rubies are mined as well.

Other deposits of some importance are found in: Afghanistan, Cambodia, Kenya and Vietnam. Less significant deposits are in: Australia, Brazil, India, Malawi, Nepal, Pakistan, United States and Zimbabwe.

The gemstone ruby is the red variety of the mineral Corundum, the second hardest natural mineral known to mankind. Ruby is the July birthstone, and the Capricorn Zodiac stone. Ruby has been associated with the values of love, success, integrity, passion, and promise.
All colors of corundum other than red or white are called Sapphire The red color in ruby is caused by trace amounts of the element chromium. The best shade of red for ruby is often given the name "pigeon blood red", but ruby can be any shade of red up to almost pink.